Urien Rakarth - Dark Eldar - Painting guide

The painting guide I followed was from a fellow blog, even though I altered it a bit to fit to my colourcode in regards to Dark Eldar flesh.

Which Colour did I use:

Boltgun Metal (Vallejo)
Abbadon Black (Games Workshop)
Flatbrown (Vallejo)
Calthan Brown (Games Workshop)
Khaki (Vallejo)
Rose brown (Vallejo)
Agrax EarthShade (Games Workshop)
Nuiln Oil (Games Workshop)
Sky Grey (Vallejo)
Mithril Silver (Games Workshop)
Knarloc Green (Games Workshop)
Warpstone Green (Games Workshop)
Fluo Green (Vallejo)
Mechrite Red (Games Workshop)
Vermillion (Vallejo)
Evil Sunz Scarlet (Games Workshop)
Deep Green (Vallejo)
Intense Blue (Vallejo)
Liche Purple (Games Workshop)
Royal Purple (Vallejo)
Genestalker Purple (Games Workshop)

1. Basecoat the flesh and bone with Rose brown, the weapons with Boltgun Metal and the leather with Abbadon Black. Highlight the leather with Caltan Brown.
2. Apply a heavy wash of Nuiln Oil to the skin. Edge highlight the leather Khaki. Wash the metal Nuiln Oil.
3. Drybrush Sky grey onto the skin. Edge highlight the leather Kommando Khaki and the metal Mithril Silver.
4. Apply a fine highlight of Skull White to the flesh and bone, and wash the leather with Agrax Earthshade.

The gauntlet and further appendages. You can also find green vials and tubes that are present on Urien. The steps being as follows:

1. First block out the glass vial/tubes with Abbadon Black
2. Apply a basecoat of Knarloc Green to the whole area
3. Highlight the upper area of the vial Warpstone Green
4. Apply a highlight of Flue Green. Finally highlight with Skull White and wash with Nuiln Oil.

The steps I followed for the tentacles that support the model were:

1. Basecoat the tentacles in Mechrite Red, with the ends of them (the pincer areas) painted Abbadon Black.
2. Highlight tentacles with Vermillion
3. Wash the tentacles with Nuil Oil followed by Abrax Earthshade.
4. Add Mithril Silver to the pincers on the end of the tentacles and highlight the tentacles with Evil Sunz Scarlet

Starting with the armour, I decided to go along the same route as that of my upcoming Kabalite armour and used the process on both his body/arm armour and the models hair. The tutorial is as follows:

1. Basecoat all required areas with Abbadon Black.
2. An edge highlight (a thin line brushed onto all edges) was applied using a 1:1 mix of Deep Green and Intense Blue.
3. Then build up the edge highlights using a mix from the last step and adding Fluo Green.
4. A final highlight of pure Fluo Green was then applied to the most prominent edges.

The final part of this guide will look at the painting of the tabbard that Urien Rakarth is wearing.

1. Basecoat the tabbard with Lichen Purple.
2. Shade the area with a 1:1 mix of Abrax Earthshade and Liche Purple that is thinned down and painted into the recesses.
3. The tabbard was then given an initial highlight using 1:1 Royal Purple with Genestalker Purple.
4. Further highlight layers were applied by using Mechrite Red and Vermillion.

The Table Project Part 1

My local DIY store had really nice boards and so it was not a problem getting 30cm by 30cm woodboards for my modular table project.

As this was cut I started around with general measurements. That means I painted a half sized version of one piece on a sheet of paper and started filling it with live (trees, houses, hedgerows, etc). Then I compared it to my general plan and took care it fits. Just to make sure my calculations are correct, I set up a second 30 by 30 board (or in irish measurements approx 1 foot by 1 foot) and painted it fixing to the first. Amazing what you can do with a ruler.

The next thing I did was mixing a 50/50 mixture of PVA glue and water. After mixing the stuff I put in some sand which I collected from the beach and mixed the whole thing through. To get it a bit thinner I needed to add some more water to the whole mixture but that was not much of a problem.

With this mixture I started plastering something on the wood board that later on will be a small or narrow rural road (550mm wide). This measurement allows a stand with 40 by 40mm  to fill the street and not exceed its wideness.

Current status is that I let that whole piece dry for two days now and afterwards actually started basecoating the areas that later on might be grass or similar stuff. I know I need to do that twice at least.

What happened:

- Tile (1 by 1 foot , or 30 by 30cm)
- Used watered down PVA glue and real sand
- rural road 5,5 cm wide made of above mentioned PVA and sand
- used a small stick on doing trail marks
- whole tile sprayed in green 2 times as wood soaks in colour
- watered down dark brown acrylic paint to soak again into the Sand, PVA construction
- Drybrushed with a 50-50 Mixture of dark brown and yellow
- highlighted with yellow

Rural road finished :) I am pleased:)

The tile actually took another brighter coat of green which matches more to the flock I currently own.

After another night of drying out I finally put PVA glue on the wood and carefully sprinkled some green flock on it. The result is what I expected it to be. As the coat of flock is not that thick (need to safe money on that) the basecolour shines through a bit. That doesnt matter that much.

Finished by now:
1) Rural road (glued, painted, drybrushed, ready)
2) Rest of the board (2 times basecoated, 1 time coloured, PVA glued and flocked)

A matter of colour

Hi all,

as I will publish some painting guides in the future on this blog I want to give a short help on everyone not using Vallejo Colours or simply use some different acrylic paints for their models which are not GW

On a webpage I found a really great comparison chart on the different brands (e.g. GW Citadel old, GW Citadel new, Vallejo, P3, etc...) which should help you a bit on my painting style or the colours I am using.

I own two different brands at present:
GW Citadel old (and a few new ones)
but mostly Vallejo colours.

Why using Vallejo ?

GW seems a bit too expensive all the time with one pot around 2,50 Euro to 3,50 Euro. Vallejo is a bit cheaper on that with approx 2,00 to 2,50 Euro and I simply like the small pots. So dont be afraid if you are not into Vallejo... use the comparison chart for the upcoming sessions and substitute into colours you have at your place.

Happy painting (hei, thats somehow new after all those "Happy building").

And here we go with the link for the comparison table:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

Chaos Shrine (Terrain / Tutorial)

As being a bit eager to get my "Dark Vengeance" Box from Games Workshop I already did some hopefully fitting terrain piece for the gaming table.

This is the actual project.. a shrine to the evil eye supposed to be used with Warhammer 40K.
Things used: old Styrofoam from the TV set, cardboard,ash from the last bbq, Styrofoam glue , Styrofoam coating (white), Acryl colors "Lakritz", two different grey shades
purple , two different red , light blue and white
As this is my first project and first piece of terrain I would be grateful for any hints and suggestions.
What happened by now:
Cut the Storyfoam into desired pieces with cuttings etc. ,Cut out the eye as well as the two stripes (going up and down) ,Glued all things to a cut piece of Styrofoam, Undercoated it with Styrofoam coating,Painted the whole stuff black and let it dry,
Drybrushed with the two grey colours,Drybrushed with watered ash from the last bbq
Painted the eye and stripes purple, drybrushed in two different shades of red
Painted white and blue.
Thats what happened by now..